04.22.2015

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11.27.2014

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11.24.2014

I had tWAR STORMo decide what I wanted my STORM to look like once I had the body work done and all of the electrical worked out. Something befitting the fear that the original Daleks created when they first came out. Something right out HELL. What would it look like? Burnt? Bloody? Tortured? ….Yep! How about all of that? Welcome to peeling flesh! A textured multi-layered paint that flips depending on which end you start with.

Depending on the light cast on it and the angle you are viewing it, it appears that there are items that are moving on the surface just like the shadow vessels did in Babylon 5!. It is creepy!!!!

 

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06.17.2014

Model makers, like evil scientists, :) and/or bombers have a “signature” when it comes to their electrical designs. When you look “behind” the curtain or inside the model of any RC model there are certain styles inherit or specific to a builder. It doesn’t infer the only way to do it; rather it accomplishes a task needed that can be easily modified on the fly during events for specific purposes.  The components they are familiar with afford a wide array of options depending on the venue or application. If you wonder why I used specific components then feel free to ask.

The components I have used here are the CF3 by ACS Sound Systems. 2 Vellemen MK114 Optical organ kits. The JR12 2.4GHZ  remote control system, the R2 builders group voltage distribution board, Custom Weapons light by Dale Wheat, custom Larson scanning LED lights for the shoulder by Dale Wheat, Vantec RDFR32 motor controller, multiple Pico light controllers for RC receivers, 3 Batteries (2 12v 80amp/hr batteries for the drive motor and 1 12v 100amp/hr battery for the lights, sound, servos and weapons).   All of my Storms & Daleks have hidden power control systems and their own rapid charging capabilities.

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The lighting control system is synced to the sound and fire control mechanism.

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06.16.2014

I didn’t 049have the benefit of blueprints or dimensional plans at the time I was building my War Storm. Just a few general drawings that I had to approximate based on surrounding scale. The skirt is a regular NSD skirt. When making cut outs and vents in the surrounding fiberglass parts it was a “best guess” based on what I saw from the Dark Dimension and the Project Dalek build log. I think I did pretty good. Other USA made Storms are based on my cutouts for standardization. The globes are 100 mm party favor balls you can get from eBay. I got mine from eBay seller zofiaschoice. This person seems to have the best price over the years as I have used them for the NSD build and now for the STORM build. The center greeblies along the black strip on the skirt were done with a 3D printer.

When the fenders come out of the molds, they don’t have the cutouts already made. Also, any defects in symmetry, contours, etc are magnified. So once I figured out where to make the holes and cuts and then had to correct the radius of the fenders and any other imperfections. It was a challenge and a lot of fun!

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281As you can see from the top view, the front skirt has an appearance similar to what I have seen…similar to the P-40 WarHawk. You have a nose, 2 eyes and a mouth. It is
intimidating. The back skirt is known as the Baboon fender. It is big, wide, heavily vented and lighted. You cannot tell from the pictures but the Baboon fender corners were flattened out from the molds so I had to round them out with body filler. I also had to correct the slope with the front and back of the shoulder and certain places around the skirt which were not 277flush or plumb. You can tell where from the non white body fill.

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The guns are all aluminum. There just isn’t anything else like all metal for a weapon system….. :)

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12.21.2013

STORM Ears

by admin

025025Storm Dalek 005The Ears on the original Storm by Alan Clark were turned Acrylic. That is very expensive if you dont have your own lathe and adds unnecessary weight. I decided to make mine out of Acrylic tubing from McMaster-Carr. It turned out beautifully. Using the same electrical lighting toy that Alan used did not yield a sufficient flash when the STORM speaks. So, i used a simple LED light inside the frosted acrylic tubing and it worked like a charm. I shaved off the base of a 2.5″ strobe, inserted a white 4 LED 12v light connected to a organ light kit (Vellemen MK114 kit).

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DSC07147The Storm Dalek uses the same base and skirt footprint as a NSD Dalek. If you don’t already have the Dalek Builders Workshop manual  (http://www.projectdalek.co.uk/) , I would strongly recommend you become a member, pay for the manual and get the free additional manuals for the 2005  Dalek and the MK6 manual.

As for the base I recommend 3/4″ grade 1 or 2  plywood.  At this phase I also apply the varnish (which you can get at Home Depot or Lowes).  This is very important and necessary step. It protects the wood from warp-age. In the first photo here the problem with the base is that the wheels are too far forward. This makes the Dalek too sensitive and difficult to steer remotely.

I have moved the wheel spaces and motor mounts aft. The undercarriage lights are added as well as other access points. This gives the illusion that it is hovering as it moves down the hallway and washes out the wheels so you cant see them.001

Since my Daleks are remote control, it is very important that the base not only be very stable so no “wheelies” ever occur from a sudden, rapid acceleration, they also do not lean in turns either. No wheels should ever show while it runs down hallways or on reflective surfaces while the under carriage lights are on. I have seen some Dalek builders use the wheels to help stabilize the platform because their main drive wheelbase is too narrow, too far forward or both. As a result, you have a sub-optimal design and an unstable platform.  That means it is unsafe.

For drive motors, I always recommend NPC 24v drive motors with the brakes removed. New motors are expensive. What I have done is visit Craig’s list and get a old wheelchair to strip down. I use those motors, wheels and sometimes those batteries and chargers if they are 24V and working. Look hard. You can get very good deals. I got all I needed for 125.00. Those new NPC motors are 325.00 + motors EACH and that doesn’t include the wheel, charger, batteries or other wheels you could use to help stabilize your Dalek.

 

12.19.2013

IMG_6893Well, here we go. I haven’t finished updating the NSD Dalek blog even though it is finished and running about exterminating annoying little destructo-bots (kids) and other humanoid life forms… lol. With no plans and no scale other than my big , eh, ruler(yeah….that’s it) and TV screen, my other NSD Dalek  for scale reference ; along with help from Dave Duca and some pictures from the Dalek builders groups’ Alan Clark’s Storm (which I am trying to basically replicate from his 2008 build), Dave and I started off to see what kind of abomination we could create. The original intent was to have 2 Storms ready for Chicago Tardis in 2013 but that didn’t happen. Only mine was ready…. sort of.

It was missing a lot of parts, detail and it could not stand any close-up scrutiny. It was put together with duct tape, wing nuts and glue. It was impossible to drive and the only reason it looked like a STORM was because My Storm Dalek under constructionit was all black. Black hides a multitude of construction sins……There just wasn’t time to do things right. Things were not symmetrical. Nothing really worked. So, after the convention I put it up in the U-Haul and had to re-do everything from the base board (re-cut the size of the board as well as re-position the drive motors  aft (they were too far forward) ) all the way up to the top. Improving on Alan’s design making it stronger, faster, better. (Hmm, sounds like an add for the 6 Million dollar man). :)   What you see now follows my build changes, modifications, problems and ideas.

You are free to to see, use, modify/enhance and ask questions as you please. All that I ask is that you give proper credit where credit is due. Also, you are not allowed to build and sell anything here for money. Build one for yourself. It is fun and it is a challenge. The original idea of this Storm design concept is not mine. It belongs to Alan Rocky Marshall and then  MechMaster (Chris Smith). Alan Clark built the original Storm. One clarification, it is NOT a Dalek. You may hear or see it referred to as one but only out of convenience by others for they do not know any better. STORM stands for Special Tactical Operations Radioactive Mutant..STORM..

Dave Duca supplied the raw base fiberglass forms however I supplied all of the mods, corrections, fixes, changes, repairs etc and they were extensive (over 2,000 hours). I built my Storm and it is coming for you!! The weapon system is active. System is On-Line. 

02.01.2011

037aI couldn’t get the original Dalek colors from England because they were not water soluble paints. Since I made the NSD dalek in California, no painter would paint it it because of their regulations. So I got what I could get (automotive paint) which- believe it or not) was Blaze Orange with a metallic pearl. It looks like copper when in the sun. Depending on the light, it can look flat or glossy. The gold is Aztec Gold. The black is flat back. Then the entire Dalek has a clear coat applied to it to protect the finish .

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11.01.2010

The shou001lder is the hardest part of the Dalek to make. The 2nd hardest item are the shoulder slats. Getting them to mate tightly and uniformly to the shoulder curves can be a major headache. It was for me. I finally gave into the EverCoat Rage to fill in the gaps. This stuff is wonderful (but expensive). I used painters blue tape so it would not adhere to the fiberglass and then sanded the sides flush. It solved my problem. The following pictures shows the gaps after the wood was routed for external appearance but you could see the gap without the wood filler.

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